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Sunday, March 24, 2013

TED Talk on Fear, Intuition and Slacklining


Yosemite Revisited

























My trip to Yosemite was sudden and I shoved it into my life like a book wedged on an overstocked bookcase. My SWEL team members Jordan Tybon and Jan Galek had come to US later than our normal course of action, and after a skydiving excursion in Lodi we conjoined in Yosemite to revisit old lines and walk some new. Naturally we revisited the Lost Arrow Spire, though the situation quickly turned into a cluster of people once a facebook event was created and soon we were overrun with nice people, but a body is a body and it takes up time and space. Nevertheless, we made the best of it.



The weather treated us well though the usual upward drafts under the spire were unavoidable. Though this line is still my solo project, this trip was not a solo mission and my headspace was not one which supported a lack of security. I donned a swami belt to step up my previous send by a notch, and confidently walked both directions. The LAS line is so small (55ft) but demands so much respect, with 3000 feet of perceived exposure, the wind, the rappel to get to the anchor, and the rigging which is on cams on one side. That line has humbled many an experienced highliner. Besides my own send, I was able to see my lover Andrew Craig walk the line for the first time, a wonderful achievement for him as that line is so iconic.

We had planned to hike the brutal Falls Trail and walk the Yosemite Falls highline, which Janek had redemption plans for and Jordan and I had never set foot on. Our friend Jared and Preston Alden and Max Silver were atop, and though the clouds were foreboding we hiked on to find them. Upon arrival at the top, though sweaty and tired from the almost 4 vertical mile hike, we went straight to a rigged Falls line. This line, though less iconic than the LAS, demands even more respect. One anchor goes to a small nose, so upon approaching the highliner is looking straight down several thousand feet to the valley below. There is no easy step off on this line. Our friends were nowhere to be found, but Jordan and Janek had both hopped on and sent by the time I reached them. The rig was on double vectran, which should have been easy however it was so low tension that we could pick up the anchor and pull it a foot towards ourselves. Nevertheless, the storm was approaching and it was our only chance. I through on my harness over my OR softshell and went for it.

photo Jordan Tybon

Vectran is a very low stretch webbing, so I had to step very calmly and keep the line as still as possible. Soft flecks of rain had already begun to fall, but this line had been on my to-do list for years and I was determined. I tried to focus on my breathing and my technique and avoid thinking about the massive space beneath me. I could hear the waterfall below pouring off the edge into expansive mist, and I could feel the gusty breeze picking up in energy as the storm gathered in the valley. I reached the other side, leaning forward to touch the rock nose that the line was anchored to, and I probably let out a small shout of joy. On sight! I was very aware I didn't have much time to rest, so I quickly scooted out and returned, more confident on my return walk. Stepping onto the anchor I pulled out an earbud from my mp3 player and heard the claps of thunder. Immediately hail began to fall. Good timing!

photo Jordan Tybon

My team and I quickly gathered our Deuter packs and scurried up the steps back to the camping area. We found a tent and a tarp in the trees, and since we had seen no other campsite, figured it was our friends zone. Ten minutes later a group of strangers showed up, as we kicked it in their camp living room. We apologized awkwardly, and left their site. We looked around a bit but could not find our friends so we decided to descend back to camp 4 where we could be dry and warm. The storm was short but it managed to get us decently wet on the hike down.

Another few days was spent at the beautiful Taft Point. There are three established highlines there, and they happen to be the easiest approach/rigging you can find in Yosemite. There are few places on the planet as scary as the valley exposure wise, and even these highlines which are all rigged in alcoves have their exposure factors.



We set up the 20 meter and 35 meter long lines on one day, and sessioned them in the sun. The rigging is easy as they are bolted and one must just walk the line around the alcove in order to get it across the gap. The trade off at Taft is the amount of Tourists who hike down to the view point there, and so every hour I ended up talking to at least 3 kaki-clad photography enthusiast who wanted to know about our "tightrope walking." Sometimes it feels like work to discuss why we highline and what it is, other times it is a golden opportunity to educate someone on the deeper, more meaningful reasons behind what we do. Andrew was also in Yosemite at the time, and got to walk 2 lines he'd never been on before.






I sent the lines in the best style I could, trying to get used to that Yosemite exposure I hadn't been around for the three years prior. Crows glided through the air, and the infamous El Cap loomed in the distance. We returned another day to rig "Spiders eating Eagles," a beautiful 170ft line established by Jerry. We rigged it on double webbing but it was still a challenge. After a few steps I felt totally out there, very alone with my body and my mind. In the end I was able to cross all three lines OS FM.


The next part of the trip is difficult to write about as it was so exhausting that my mind attempts to block it out as I type. Establishing a new highline in Yosemite might always be a beastly task, but establishing the 106 meter long highline "Hubris" blew everything I'd done out of the water. Our team had been eyeballing the Cathedral Spires in the Valley for weeks, and Janek had acquired all the beta necessary to get on top of them.

To be continued.....





Joshua Tree


Bilboa for Mendi Film Festival


Another slacksgiving in Utah...


Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Ravages of Time in Czech Paradise


A British friend and refreshing character I met during the Volvo commercial shoot, Monte, contacted me this Fall with interest to document my friends and I doing what we do best; being dirtbag’s and highlining. It was all quite last minute, and most of the SWEL team had already made plans to work as the weather changed and take care of real world responsibilities. I wanted to work with Monte and thought it was a good opportunity to create more media for our team and our sport, so finally we agreed to do a project in Czech Republic together.



The SWEL team all met together in Czech Paradise, staying at the home of Kletter kiddies company Jan and Judith. They were quite busy, but it was lovely to see them briefly, and Jan’s home is a little bit of paradise. I was grateful to stay there with the team. The house is quiet, with an apple grove, flowers, soft green grass, and a warm and inviting homestead feel. As autumn was right around the corner, the colors there were also magnificent.


Kwjet had a year old project nearby in Mala Skala, a nice highline in between some special sandstone rocks. We had a short schedule and the British boys (Monte and his friend Luke) were on their way slowly with a demon car that broke down randomly. They were driving from London, so it sounded like an epic adventure in itself.

Klara, a slackliner friend from another Czech Village, joined us for the project and lent her car for transport, which helped us immensely. Czech Paradise has the same magical feeling as Ostrov, but larger scale and with more nooks and crannies of climbing to find. Charlie, a friend from US on a grand European slackline adventure also came along. He ended up as the American replacement of Jordan, who got in a minor car accident in Berlin and suffered a bit of whiplash but was thankfully ok.

We started the rigging process the day we arrived. I lead a non-route on one side to find the anchor, which went up a kind of chimney to a ledge, then followed a real route briefly to another corner ledge. There was little chance for knot placement but the level was easy and the holds were good. I placed some knots upon the second ledge and sling a free boulder so we could make the anchor the next day. The other side was an easier rig, and Janek slung a boulder there.

The following day the British boys came along to document, and we introduced them to a bit of scrambling, harnesses, slings and carabiners. This was a hilarious experience as Monte’s idea of outdoor wear was some fashionable work boots and tight jeans. He crawled where we walked, but broke through his fear and managed to get all the way to the anchor of the highline to film. Kwjet created an amazing anchor on the side I climbed out of slings tied in knots, with 2 knots holding the line, another knot as a directional downward, and a backup to the free boulder sitting on the ledge. It was a very cool anchor and reinforced our ideas of doing highlines on natural anchors.


We rigged with Gibbon flowline and a twin dynamic rope, not an easy setup, but walkable. The line ended up being 53 meters in length and about 20 meters high. Kwjet had the first ascent since it was after all his project, Ancee took a quick attempt then they both had to hurry and return to Prague. It was quite late by that time, so only Charlie was keen for a try, and he fought hard until the sun was low.


The following day Janek walked the line onsight full man, in pink pants and a red pirate hat to boot.


Charlie spent more time trying the line, which was a few meters longer than his longest send, and he worked hard! He also tried the pirate hat for luck.



I sent the line onsight full man as well, fighting hard to stay concentrated. I could feel the fatigue in my legs, however, from highlining too much and never taking a rest. It was clear I needed a break from my own sport. For Monte to film I walked the line various times, also putting on some retro blue spandex for fun. It was fun to work with Monte and Luke, who provided us with laughs and plenty to poke fun at. Monte was sure to wear his retro nike trainers the next day, which were better than work boots but still the opposite of what I meant by “outdoor wear.” He was bolder the second day, even hanging on a sling off a ledge to get a good shot.

The line itself was spectacular despite not being so high off the ground. It was almost at the top of both piles of rocks, and the view around was of the valley, some hills, colorful fall leaves, smoking chimneys, and in the distance some more sandstone towers. Under the line were strange monuments, with “William Shakespeare” listed on one of them, while the other was illegible. Nearby to the lines was a strange mossy tomb with a king’s crown upon it, which Charlie and I had trouble to break into for exploration (Americans when they find old stuff, as usual).



The forest all around was green and cool, with yellow and orange leaves appearing sprinkled about. I was reminded the whole time of why I love Czech Republic so much. The downside is that it is a landlocked country, but every part of it is so cozy and beautiful, that I find myself feeling at home no matter where I go.


We derigged in the night, true to our nature, and all returned to Jan’s country home for one last evening together. The Brit’s joined us that night, and had their fair share of Czech pivo. The following day would be spent on interviews, dropping Janek on the highway to hitchhike to Poland, and giving me a ride to Ostrov and taking Charlie all the way to Munich so they could attend Oktoberfest.

I look forward to seeing what Monte creates with the footage, and hope he continues to work with slackliners in the future! 



Interview with Caro Lobig

Have a look at a recent interview (it is translated in German) with Caro Lobig!

Interview